Broadhead flight
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Saw something the other day on Wild Tv. Stan Potts of North American Whitetail uses a slow set glew for the inserts and rotates the broadhead until the blades are in line with the flethchings. Then he spins them for a final check.
Been told the same about heating the ends of the arrow shafts/inserts and rotating the broadheads until the blades line up with the fletchings. Fine for aluminum arrows but not sure about carbon shafts.
Apparently uneven distribution of the insert glew can cause the variation of the flight. By rotating the heated insert a few times allows the glew to be balanced out.
Can this be done with carbon shafts or does the heat ruin them???
Been told the same about heating the ends of the arrow shafts/inserts and rotating the broadheads until the blades line up with the fletchings. Fine for aluminum arrows but not sure about carbon shafts.
Apparently uneven distribution of the insert glew can cause the variation of the flight. By rotating the heated insert a few times allows the glew to be balanced out.
Can this be done with carbon shafts or does the heat ruin them???
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99 Posts
I just finished broadhead tuning my bow the other day. Now my broadheads fly the exact same as my field points, which is how it should be if you're bow is tuned correctly.
I used the Easton Archery Tuning and Maintenance guide. You can find it at http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
The broadhead tuning section starts on page 11. They have a great diagram that shows all the possible errors of broadhead flight relative to your field point flight, and they tell you how to correct the problem. They really made it easy.
When I started my field points were rite on target, but my fixed blade broadheads were 5 inches low an right at 20 yards. It turns out that my arrow rest was too far right, and my nocking point had to be lowered about half a centimetre. This threw my sight pins all out of whack, but once I got them readjusted both my field points and broadheads were hitting the bullseye dead centre at 20, 30 and 40 yards.
I think that broadhead tuning is a MUST if you really want to finalize the fine tuning of your bow.
FYI my broadhead blades are not aligned with my vanes. It doesn't seem to bother my setup, but some folks swear by it.
I used the Easton Archery Tuning and Maintenance guide. You can find it at http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
The broadhead tuning section starts on page 11. They have a great diagram that shows all the possible errors of broadhead flight relative to your field point flight, and they tell you how to correct the problem. They really made it easy.
When I started my field points were rite on target, but my fixed blade broadheads were 5 inches low an right at 20 yards. It turns out that my arrow rest was too far right, and my nocking point had to be lowered about half a centimetre. This threw my sight pins all out of whack, but once I got them readjusted both my field points and broadheads were hitting the bullseye dead centre at 20, 30 and 40 yards.
I think that broadhead tuning is a MUST if you really want to finalize the fine tuning of your bow.
FYI my broadhead blades are not aligned with my vanes. It doesn't seem to bother my setup, but some folks swear by it.
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2,628 Posts
Heating carbon arrows would be bad IMO...
I mount the heads and check for the heads being true, if not ill try another head(or shaft)... those that dont spin true become dedicated target shafts.
make sure center shot is on, (rest is ususally pretty close then)
I dont bother aligning withe vanes either.
Find that the correct arrow and draw weight, with no wobble on heads, makes tuning the broadhead much easier.
(a little less or more draw weight can make a BIG diffenence in arrow flight i find)
I mount the heads and check for the heads being true, if not ill try another head(or shaft)... those that dont spin true become dedicated target shafts.
make sure center shot is on, (rest is ususally pretty close then)
I dont bother aligning withe vanes either.
Find that the correct arrow and draw weight, with no wobble on heads, makes tuning the broadhead much easier.
(a little less or more draw weight can make a BIG diffenence in arrow flight i find)
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126 Posts
I wouldn't heat a carbon arrow. Whenever i manage to break an arrow i always take the insert out incase i lose one. I put heat to the shaft and it lights on fire. Even if you didn't put enough heat on it to catch it on fire i could see it screwin' around with the arrow a bit.
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1,462 Posts
I tune my bow so that my broadheads and field points fly the same. Before season I shoot every arrow with a broadhead attached to make sure there aren't any "fliers" so when I draw down on an animal I know exactly where that arrow is going to go. Confidence in your equipment means alot. If you can't get them flying the same then tune with broadheads since that is what you'll be hunting with. IMO
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·"...Saw something the other day on Wild Tv. Stan Potts of North American Whitetail uses a slow set glew for the inserts and rotates the broadhead until the blades are in line with the flethchings. Then he spins them for a final check..."
Yes. I do the same, minus the spin test as I don't have a spinner.
"...Been told the same about heating the ends of the arrow shafts/inserts and rotating the broadheads until the blades line up with the fletchings. Fine for aluminum arrows but not sure about carbon shafts..."
Yes...that used to work great on aluminums...but not so much on carbon arrows. Tried last year, and tried very hard LOL with no luck. Tech at the archery shop said the glue is a little different now for carbons, virtually impossible to move once it sets.
So now I get my arrows cut to the length I want, then pick 6 "hunting only" arrows ( 3 for my G5 broadheads and 3 for my practice G5 broadheads )...screw the broadhead into the insert, THEN put the insert in with glue on it and rotate it to where I want it ( I still believe in lining up the 3 blade broadhead with the 3 fletchings).
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Yes. I do the same, minus the spin test as I don't have a spinner.
"...Been told the same about heating the ends of the arrow shafts/inserts and rotating the broadheads until the blades line up with the fletchings. Fine for aluminum arrows but not sure about carbon shafts..."
Yes...that used to work great on aluminums...but not so much on carbon arrows. Tried last year, and tried very hard LOL with no luck. Tech at the archery shop said the glue is a little different now for carbons, virtually impossible to move once it sets.
So now I get my arrows cut to the length I want, then pick 6 "hunting only" arrows ( 3 for my G5 broadheads and 3 for my practice G5 broadheads )...screw the broadhead into the insert, THEN put the insert in with glue on it and rotate it to where I want it ( I still believe in lining up the 3 blade broadhead with the 3 fletchings).
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