New Brunswick Hunting Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Sometimes it's a PITA to run to the nearest bow shop for minor maintenance. I've been looking at several DIY plans for various types, some looked a little intimidating, others were downright scary but in the end I opted for a hydraulic model as I had an old 1.5 tone bottle jack, various pieces of square tubing and angle iron, air craft cable, 3/8" nuts and bolts, wire nuts and loops. All I needed extra was 4' of 1.5" square tube, 3' of 1/2" round stock, a 3/4 cast iron threaded end cap, couple of 3/8" eye bolts, 2 boat rollers and a 1' each 1/2", 3/4" inner diameter automotive hose. This was the cheapest option by far, less then $20 but even if you had to buy everything, still under $75.

Links to an Xpress bow press plan

Link to a hydraulic press plan, the one I used with some modifications.

Scary engineering, not recommended

My modified version, added some adjustabilty. note that nothing permanent was welded on.



image link
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Drilled them myself, lots of cutting oil on a mid size pedestal drill press, used 4 sizes for the 1/2" holes, started small, 3/16", 3/8", 7/16" and finished with the 1/2" holes.

I modified it by making main tube strictly a support member. I moved the bow riser support rods to a twin tube assembly using a 1 3/4" tube welded to another 1 1/2 tube that can be moved to precisely position the riser support rods for any particular bow design. One end of the 1 1/2" tube was drilled and cut open for the pivoting arm the same as the original plans called for in the horizontal tube. I ended up having to drill one more hole closer to the pivot point in each arm due to raising the arm pivit an additional 1 1/2".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Great job on the press!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
Found this online, thought that it was a neat/easy idea for a press.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
quick question.

i see the pivot assembly slides on the main support? to fit bows.. correct

No issue when you tighten the bolt on the pivot slide bottom? i assume that bolt on the bottom is for locking the slide section in place)) any issue / danger of it Slipping?

FYI - I see on line that they have something for this type of press for ding split limb --ie X force (pse) bows.







thanks
 
  • Upvote
Reactions: styk

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
quick question. i see the pivot assembly slides on the main support? to fit bows.. correct
Yup

No issue when you tighten the bolt on the pivot slide bottom? i assume that bolt on the bottom is for locking the slide section in place)) any issue / danger of it Slipping?

Nope, I put 2 on the bottom and 2 on the backside to eliminate any possibility of rocking in the horizontal or vertical axis.

FYI - I see on line that they have something for this type of press for ding split limb --ie X force (pse) bows.
Yup, I've seen that too, it also allows the pressure exerted by the press to be placed closer to the wheel or cam axle. the design I modified will also handle split limb and the past parallel bows like the PSE Omen, just may have to lengthen the notch in the pivot tube. That "U" piece could be used instead of the straight rod/boat roller that I have on mine.

After using mine for a while, I think I will replace the bottle jack and cable with a trailer jack and 2 flat bars, same as the Xpress that you can buy commercially. The bottle jack and cable is a lot cheaper then the other method buit a little sloppy until the bow is under some pressure from the press.















 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
Great,
Thanks Styk

printed pics and off to see me welding buddy --


PS, like the turn-buckle idea
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
Cool ideas guys.
Necessity is the mother of invention


The bottle jack and cable is a lot cheaper then the other method buit a little sloppy until the bow is under some pressure from the press.
Was gonna mention maybe two tabs/spots welded on or a groove scored ontop of that cap to kinda keep it in line or a bit more secure/safe...R... when applying pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cool ideas guys.
Necessity is the mother of invention


Was gonna mention maybe two tabs/spots welded on or a groove scored ontop of that cap to kinda keep it in line or a bit more secure/safe...R... when applying pressure.
Yes, I should have pointed that out, it is grooved to keep the cable in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
If anyone was looking at the Xpress, method, Princess auto has their 5000 Lb Trailer jack on sale for $45, square body for easy attachment to the horizontal tube. has a 5/8" pin holding the foot on, I plan on removing the foot and replacing the pin with a 5" 5/8" bolt, no welding or cutting required for that part.

Pro X press plans

5,000 lb Weld-On Drop Leg Trailer Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I'm just saying alot of the newer bows do not like to be pressed like that,and there is some i wouldn't press that way and some companies don't recommend that way and will void warranty's .,there is some that can be but i would try to follow a few thing's,where the roller touches the limb for pressing make sure it's atleast 4" from the limb pocket the roller that touch the riser should be out towards the limb as far as possible without touching the limb during the pressing make sure limb bolts are backed out to max,and only press the bow far enough to get the string and cable off no further,these presses want to push the riser vertically up word,to much pressure is bad new's,and when the bow is pressed don't put any pressure vertically down on the riser.just to stress the pressure points of these presses are critical to have in the right spot or damage will happen.
just trying to pass along some helpful info. pls don't shot the messenger.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top