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I bought a bow today and went to an indoor range. After about 30 mins I was able to place 8 of 9 arrows in the first two rings from 18 yards. Question, how difficult is it going to be to shoot the same groupings from 35 yards and 45 yards?
 

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Musta been a crossbow was it?...lmao


Just kiddin wamt

The further back you go the more magnified any mistakes in form and release are.
By the sounds of it ya were doing good...repeat that every time and don't "overshoot"(shoot too much/often too soon)
Practice,practice,practice and then practice some more....

You'll soon learn that putting that many arrows in that small an area from any distance.... gets expensive
 

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So what is the diameter of that two ring circle on the target? And how close are your arrows grouping together? The key things to shooting a bow accurately include...
How steady you can hold it.
A consistent anchor point, and release method.
Good,and consistent shooting form, which means doing everything the same way for each shot.
I find the most difficult thing to keep a handle on for me is following through with the shot.
Any movement of your bow arm will affect where that arrow goes. Torquing your wrist or dropping your bow arm slightly can become bad habits. You should always wait until you see and hear the arrow hit the target before moving your bow arm even the slightest.

I find that long range shooting is good practice, and makes the closer shots of course seem easier. Only problem is at my age my eye sight isn't as good as it was, even with my eye glasses. Holding that small pin steady on a 40 yard target can be pretty difficult.
 

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You will be grouping well at 30yds. in no time,just vary the distance all the time,I know it's hard indoors.Get yourself a descent target and shoot wherever you can.Hope you enjoy the bow.Bet you'll be ready to retire your guns anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So what is the diameter of that two ring circle on the target? And how close are your arrows grouping together? The key things to shooting a bow accurately include...
How steady you can hold it.
A consistent anchor point, and release method.
Good,and consistent shooting form, which means doing everything the same way for each shot.
I find the most difficult thing to keep a handle on for me is following through with the shot.
Any movement of your bow arm will affect where that arrow goes. Torquing your wrist or dropping your bow arm slightly can become bad habits. You should always wait until you see and hear the arrow hit the target before moving your bow arm even the slightest.

I find that long range shooting is good practice, and makes the closer shots of course seem easier. Only problem is at my age my eye sight isn't as good as it was, even with my eye glasses. Holding that small pin steady on a 40 yard target can be pretty difficult.
I think the rings where around 1", not sure (small paper targets).

My forearm is bruised...lol..I think a arm gaurd is the next purchase item. Thanks for the info guys.
 

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I think the rings where around 1", not sure (small paper targets).

My forearm is bruised...lol..I think a arm gaurd is the next purchase item. Thanks for the info guys.
If your string is hitting your arm that is usually an indication of your draw lengh being to long.I was trying to push at 30 inch draw lengh and had same problem .Put back to 29 and everything settled in right.
 

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I was just about to say....or type the same reply! Draw length is probably a bit long.

Here is a link to the page on Draw Length etc from Hunters Friend site. Good info here.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/drawlength.htm

If you are keep slapping arrows together at that distance, then you should definitely do well out to 30 40! Check your/and the bows draw length, and wear a jacket or heavy sweater with a tight fitting sleeve until you get all the kinks worked out. ...and more important..have "Fun"!
 

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Actually a shooter "can" compensate for the draw length in a pinch...and even for many years. When I bought my XI Flatliner way back in 1994, I was not too keen on all this technical stuff. And I wanted that bow real bad anyway. It has 30" modules on it. And my ideal draw length is 28". But I adjusted my form and draw to get used to the extra length. I used it that way for 12 years! That included killing three bucks with it. It probably did give me a few forearm bruises in all that time. But most of the time I wore long sleeves. It grouped arrows quite well too I might add.
 

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Actually a shooter "can" compensate for the draw length in a pinch...and even for many years. When I bought my XI Flatliner way back in 1994, I was not too keen on all this technical stuff. And I wanted that bow real bad anyway. It has 30" modules on it. And my ideal draw length is 28". But I adjusted my form and draw to get used to the extra length. I used it that way for 12 years! That included killing three bucks with it. It probably did give me a few forearm bruises in all that time. But most of the time I wore long sleeves. It grouped arrows quite well too I might add.
Myself I have been working on my anchor point and trying to do same thing over and over at indoor range.For me When I draw bow back I close my eyes and when I open them I want peep in perfect line with front site.I want my shooting hand tucked into my jaw bone and my string is just touching my nose.Like I am looking down rifle barrel.My release has long arm so I am changing to an adjustable scott release with adjustable trigger( I like hair trigger).This will allow me to move shooting hand forward 1 inch into better anchor adjustment.
 

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I hear ya, X Force. Getting everything set right for individual consistency is the key. I always had an idea that I wanted to try, but just never did. My wife always thought I was nuts. I have toyed with the idea of getting my right ear pierced, and having a small magnetic disc for an ear ring. Then gluing another small disc on my release in the correct spot to line up with the other one. This way when I draw and anchor, the magnets will click together..and help me to stay solidly anchored until I follow through. I still may get around to trying it someday.
 

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I hear ya, X Force. Getting everything set right for individual consistency is the key. I always had an idea that I wanted to try, but just never did. My wife always thought I was nuts. I have toyed with the idea of getting my right ear pierced, and having a small magnetic disc for an ear ring. Then gluing another small disc on my release in the correct spot to line up with the other one. This way when I draw and anchor, the magnets will click together..and help me to stay solidly anchored until I follow through. I still may get around to trying it someday.
Lol man you are hooked for sure!!! That is either very disurbing or border line brilliant!! They do say that the differce between a genius and insane man is a very fine line.
 

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I hear ya, X Force. Getting everything set right for individual consistency is the key. I always had an idea that I wanted to try, but just never did. My wife always thought I was nuts. I have toyed with the idea of getting my right ear pierced, and having a small magnetic disc for an ear ring. Then gluing another small disc on my release in the correct spot to line up with the other one. This way when I draw and anchor, the magnets will click together..and help me to stay solidly anchored until I follow through. I still may get around to trying it someday.
Hey I'm all for a little thoughtful inginuity (but once you started with the ear ring I'm out of here)
 

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My knuckle is locked into the socket behind my ear at full draw, thumb under my jaw with the string just touching my nose.

Back in the day most bows came with only 30" draw modules and as ANNB said we just compensated but later I went to shorter and shorter DL and I now shoot at 28 3/8" which is just right. Been a lot of years since I had a string touch my arm
 
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