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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do you consider a good grouping for the distance and style of shooting your doing, BR, TR, etc.
 

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Out of a deer rifle off a bench rest I consider under 1.5" to be a good grouping at 100m (but anything under 2.5" is acceptable since I have never shot a deer over 100m), and free hand I am happy if I can print under 4" at 100m.

Out of a varmint rifle I would consider anything under 1" moa at 100m to be a good grouping off the bench rest. I rarely free hand varmints I almost always find a rest but I would be happy with a 3" grouping free hand at 100m.

That being said I think 100m is much futher than a lot of people believe it to be.
 

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Out of a rifle, from a solid rest - 1 MOA or better @ 100 (with handloads)
 

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That being said I think 100m is much futher than a lot of people believe it to be.
[/quote]

X2 wwjmbd on that.

I just got back from the range the other day with a 1.75'' grouping (7 shots) with factory loads in my 300WSM, using a bi-pod rest and my cupped elbow lol! I am very pleased with such accuracy for big game.

Personnaly, I will not leave the range 'till my tube shoots within a 1.5'' group @ 100 yards (usually sighted in 2'' above bull's eye for my loads and caliber). This gives me the confidence to effectively shoot and kill any big game out to 400 yards in the boiler room.

In NB, most often under hunting conditions, the longest shots will be within 250 yards, unless you hunt large expanses of fields or agricultural areas. In Saskatchewan, I killed a buck out to 345 yards, and my bud's take'em out 400 + on a fairly consistent basis. They shoot nothing but 7 MMs...

When you need to pull out a spotting scope to see the bullet hole in the paper, you're a long way out.

For example, most people have a hard time seeing their shots thru the aperture of a 3-9x40mm out to 100 yards under less than ideal light conditions.
 

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I prefer my deer rifle's to be sub MOA as I am presented with long shots often in the fields I hunt, usually 250+yrds. Both of my 30 cal's(300RUM and 30-06) and my 22-250 consistently shoot 3/4MOA @ 100yrds or better, with handloads, off the bags which gives me the confidence to make a long shot. I believe half of the battle of making a long shot is believing you and your rifle are capable!

Just like Bullseye, I like my rifles 2" high @ 100.
 

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For a Deer Rifle, any group, shot offhand, under the size of a pie plate at 100M would be sufficient to put venison in your freezer. That having been said, nothing wrong with a .25" group at 100M.
 

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OK being the pain in the rear that I am and not understanding acranums and abreviations ........ can someone please tell me what they mean in some these post?
What is the world is MOA?
I assume BR is Bench Rest and TR is maybe Tripode?????

Am I close?

Please for people like me use the KISS method (Keep it simple stupid) Spell them out.

Sigh I am so behind the times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry Stilllearning. BR does refer to Bench Rest. TR refers to a F-class sub category and stands for Target Rifle limited to .223 and .308 with bipod and rear bag, sniper style

F-class refers to long range "slow fire" (only 1 round at a time) target shooting (out to 1000 yards) all shot prone.Bow-man covered MOA...1.047" inches for 100 yards, 3.141" at 300, 10.47" at 1000 yards, etc....
 

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For my 300 ultra mag / 30-06 & 22-250 I won't stop tweaking until each of them are MOA or better. I have all 3 of them sighted in at 2 inches above the bullseye at 100yards. Often enough my deer are shot 250 - 300 yard range and with this setup I know I can make this shot time and time again and if I need to stretch it out even further I know exactly where each mil-dot on my ultra mag is hitting at 100yards and I run this data on my ballistic program and as an example if my 2nd mildot on the bottom post is 6 inches high at 100 yards I know its pretty much dead center at 350yards. I actually keep a small piece of paper taped to my stock with this info out to 600 yards based of my 180gr hand loads for my ultra mag.
Then just a quick glace in the field I know which mildot I need to use on the bottom post.

This may sound complicated but really its not. Just need to do a bit of prep work and your good to go. Wind is the major factor when dealing with longer shots.
 

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What do you consider a good grouping for the distance and style of shooting your doing, BR, TR, etc.
it depends on the rifle for me. My 308 will routinely do 0.5-0.6 inch (5 shot groups)off the bench with bags with its best "accuracy loads" but for hunting loads I generally push the velocity a little more and am happy with anything an inch or a little better (3 shots).

For my 7600 carbine, I am fortunate that this little rifle shoots everything around 1 inch (3 shots) at 100 meters, even with some factory loads. I have a couple of handloads that are pushing max and am getting good velocity and MOA accuracy (3 shots) so I don't worry to much about it. I generally use this rifle in thick cover but I know it can carry the mail for long shots if it has too.

I have a 22 250 with a 1/14 twist tube that I run 60-64 bullets in (partitions and 64 grain Win power points) and for 5 shots this gun will do about 1.25 inch and about 1 inch or slightly better with 3 shots. This gun is definitely capable of better groups with some of the 50-55 grain loads but I load tough bullets designed for penetration and accept that compromise.

For me, the most important thing is that the first shot out of cold barrel goes where it is supposed to everytime. On all of my rifles I am fortunate that the first shot of the day always lands and groups with the first group of the day, ie. I had a model 7 once in 308 that would always thow the first shot about 2 inch high than the next two shots. free floating the barrel and glass bedding fixed that.

For long range practice (for me long range is 300-400 yards) usually prone, off of my backpack I shoot each gun with its hunting loads at those ranges and know exactly what the drop is at 300, 325, 350, 375 and 400 yards though I have never had a shot at game over 270 yards. Somebody said that wind is a big factor as the range gets long and I agree 100 %. Wind doping is a science and skill in itself.

The other thing is to use the bench to get sighted in, develop loads, and practice trigger control. Then do the rest of your shooting from field positions. That has helped me immensely. I shot about 1000 rounds the past two summers and I would say less than 300 of those were off the bench. the rest were hunting positions, standing, prone, etc.
 
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